Gandhi Knows Best

“Be the change you want to see in the world”- Mahatma Gandhi 

This quote is relevant towards achieving a sustainable future in more ways than one.  True change cannot be achieved without a sufficient foundation.  It’s easier to come up with characteristics that define the change you would like to see, but it’s more difficult to think of actions that ultimately drive the change you desire.  The ideas and characteristic that we associate with a sustainable future can only be achieved through implementing action.  In my opinion, the actions that will drive the change towards a more sustainable future include sufficiency, collaboration, innovation and balance.

Characteristic: Sufficient 

Mental Mode: I’m a minimalist, I do not need to use an excessive amount of resources to prove my self worth.  

In the article Limiting Consumption: Toward a Sustainable Culture accredits overconsumption with the “surging exploitation of resources that threatens to exhaust or unalterably disfigure forests, soils, water, air, and climate.”  To ensure a sustainable future we must critically evaluate our daily routines to help us determine the specific areas where we carelessly utilize unnecessary resources.  A large majority of our society believe that the earth has an infinite supply of resources that will never run out.  We must begin to view the environment as a living being because it has certain needs that must be met in order to ensure its survival.  The mindset, “presentation is everything” poses a significant threat that ultimately detracts our society from achieving a sustainable future.  The multitude of advertisements have caused many consumers to raise their expectations towards products and it will continue to progress if not addressed.  A possible solution is the government establishing more limitations on the number of advertisements that businesses are allowed to present to consumers.  A sustainable future avoids misleading consumers with mindless advertisements.

Characteristic:Collaborative

Mental Mode: Harmony and communication make all industries stronger.

For example, if the apparel and textile industry is committed to using less water in the production of its products, but the agriculture industry continues to use excessive amounts of water, the lack of collaboration among the two industries creates a toxic cycle that reinforces unsustainable management practices.  An environment will be more profitable when industries are unified by communication.  Mental modes similar to the “us vs. them” mentality creates an unhealthy dynamic that paralyzes our efforts in achieving a sustainable future.  Collaboration can be achieved through installing a mode of contemplative thinking, known as systems thinking.  “In systems thinking, sustainability is a dynamic process, featuring the networks of relationships among the purposeful motions toward a shared vision, the properties of a complex social ecological concept.”(Visioneering: an essential framework in sustainability science)   

Characteristic: Innovative

Mental Mode: I have the responsibility to create more alternatives that will ultimately benefit the future. 

Throughout this semester I’ve gained more awareness concerning the alternative fibers that can be used to substitute the use of natural and manufactured fibers. Many of these so called ‘alternatives’ also pose many threats that are detrimental to the environment.  We can take more actions to become more proactive in developing solutions that fully address the problem.  It’s also our duty to develop and design solutions that will ensure the longevity of our environment for future generations.  For example, the alternatives that can be used to substitute polyester fibers can also be extremely damaging to the environment.  Mental modes like “we’re wasting our energy in our quests to develop more sustainable alternatives because sustainability is a concept that cannot be accomplished” creates a barrier that directly impacts research and development.  A innovative future that’s sustainable can be accomplished  by “expanding our capacity for foresight, and we can do it by learning how to imagine many possibilities when we are thinking about the future.” (Thinking Ahead: The Value of Future Consciousness)  We must refuse to accept defeat and continue our quest to discover alternatives that are truly sustainable.

Characteristic: Well Balanced

Mental Mode: To find a solution to a problem I consider the environmental costs as well as the financial costs.

A decision cannot be a SOLUTION without evaluating the environmental and financial advantages and disadvantages.  For example, if a retailer only took into consideration the environmental costs involved in the production of goods it would be very difficult to obtain a sizable profit.  Our goal for the future must “involve not only the integration of disciplines, but also different views and knowledge in the processes of deliberation and assessment.”  Mental modes like “the only purpose of the environment is to line my pockets with money” is a mentality that’s hampering our growth.  A well balanced environment can be achieved through the mode of systems thinking.  When more people feel like their needs are being addressed the more receptive they will be towards change.   

The formula for a Sustainable Future: 

Sufficiency + Collaboration + Innovativeness + Balance = A Sustainable Future

Bamboozling a Hempster in Sheep's Clothing

Pro-Life or Pro-choice?

Pro-Death Penalty or Anti Death Penalty?

Pro-Gay Marriage or Anti-Gay Marriage?

I’m an individual that tries to steer clear of issues that involve politics, religion, or any other topic that’s morally fueled.  However, the focus of my blog this week aims to further examine and critique the arguments associated with the supposed "miracle fibers." 

The idiomatic expression “a wolf in sheep’s clothing” can be used to describe the sequence of events prompting the textile industry to reexamine the model of the certification systems utilized by the clothing and textile supply chains. The supposed ‘wolf’ in the Controversy Broiling; GM Cotton Against Organic is genetically modified cotton and the disguise that’s being worn resembles organic cotton.  In 2010 the Financial Times Deutschland reported, “large amounts of genetically modified cotton from India had been put on the German market as organic cotton.”  This led many consumers to question the authenticity of organic cotton.  Determined to win back their customers trust the organic textile industry sought a solution that would ultimately guarantee uncontaminated production. The author argues that organic integrity can only be achieved through the reform of current certification systems.  The model that shapes the Third Party Certification system fails to ensure the equal distribution of trade-offs among various contributors.  For example, “the inherent expense and paperwork required in a multilevel system discourages most small organic producers from being certified at all.”  To revamp certification systems the author suggests that we must “seek a model where certification transcends its generic limits and becomes a conscious effort from all the players in the chain, right from producers to the brands.” (Controversy Broiling; GM Cotton Against Organic)  Chetna Organic in India, is an example the author uses to strengthen his argument and to convey the substantial benefits of a certification system largely focused on mutual trust and commitment.  “Chetna Organic is an Organic and Fair-trade supply chain initiative to support small and marginal farmers to adapt sustainable agricultural practices.” (Controversy Broiling; GM Cotton Against Organic)  The certification model of Chetna Organic places a huge emphasis on long term commitment, social development, transparency through Internal Control Systems, and communication.  Evaluating the certification model utilized by  Chetna Organic from a farmers point of view, it would prove to be quite effective considering “Chetna farmers have a shareholding in the garmenting factory of Rajilakshimi Cotton Mills Limited to ensure that they have stakes in the supply chain.”  In addition, the suppliers investment in social development would significantly  benefit farmers, consumers, and the community as a whole.  The author has a very persuasive argument and I agree with all of the measures proposed by the author.  The argument presented by the author adequately took into account the different perspectives of stakeholders.   The author accomplished this by conveying the potential benefits that each stakeholder stands to gain through a reformed certification system that’s internalized. 

The article Are you Being Bamboozled: How to Avoid Mislabeling, argues that more combative measures must be taken to ensure clothing products containing bamboo fibers are accurately labeled.  The first paragraph of the article contains the most compelling arguments made by the author.  The following statement is featured in the opening sentence, “the truth is, most “bamboo” textile products, if not all are really rayon.”  The author then goes on to say “rayon is a manufactured polymer typically made using environmentally toxic chemicals in a process that emits hazardous pollutants into the air.”  It’s likely the arguments in the first paragraph would have the greatest impact on consumers.  Many consumers do not have the slightest idea regarding the similar properties in fiber that bamboo and rayon posses.  I’m almost certain that the author presenting this argument is a disgruntled consumer.  The clothing and textile industry are largely relied upon to increase the awareness and education of consumers. Consumers will feel instantly deceived that more preventative measures were not taken to increase their awareness.  Retailers and manufacturers may find the authors argument to be irrational and irrelevant, thus assuming no responsibility pertaining to deceptively labeling products.  The author addresses the argument that describes that “no one would dream of labeling a product as “spruce” or “pine”, but because it seems vaguely credible that bamboo plants could be made into fiber with minimal processing, the process is never discussed.”  I find this argument confusing and I’m certain consumers would also agree.  Overall, the arguments presented in this article were lackluster in nature and not highly convincing.  

The article Hemp: Historic Fiber Remains Controversial and the film Hempsters: Plant the Seed are arguments in favor of legalizing industrial hemp in the United States.  The article and the film view hemp as a sustainable alternative that can serve as a substitute form of cotton. Fundamentally one of the most compelling arguments presented in the article Hemp: Historic Fiber Remains Controversial includes the following quotation, “currently, it is legal to import hemp fibers and processed seeds into the U.S., but it is illegal to grow the plant here.”  It’s very hypocritical that the government will allow hemp to be imported into our country, but if an American dares to cultivate the crop it’s against the law.  It is this very issue that radically reduces the validity of the arguments made by politicians and government institutions in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp.  The article and film both point out that the strongest advocates in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp fail to acknowledge the multitude of environmental benefits that the cultivation of industrial hemp would provide.  Those in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp completely alter this issue by creating a fictitious facade that all morality will be lost  if industrial hemp is legalized.  Law enforcement and the United States Drug Enforcement Agency (DEA) are advocates strongly opposing the legalization of industrial hemp because they think it will be far too difficult to distinguish between hemp and marijuana crops.  The article argues that the growing methods for hemp and marijuana are significantly and noticeably different.  The film reinforces this argument by presenting pictures that accurately showcase the noticeable differences concerning the growing methods.  An advocate for legalizing industrial hemp suggests that the reservations of our government are merely a power struggle between the government and its citizens.  The advocate goes on to question if the government will also ban powder sugar because of its close resemblance to cocaine.  Those in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp argue that hemp is just a cuter name for marijuana.  They also argue that hemp contains THC, one of the main ingredients found in marijuana.  However, the article Hemp: Historical Fiber Remains Controversial disagrees and states that, “the subspecies used for making fiber, colloquially known as “industrial hemp:, reportedly contains too little of the hallucinogenic substance tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), between 0.1 and 0.4% to have an effect when smoked and, according to a number of sources, would make one quite ill.”  The article goes on to state that the “marijuana plant contains as much as 20% of THC.” A statement in the film that I found very compelling was “a person would have to smoke the quantity of hemp the size of a telephone poll in order to feel a slight buzz.”   The author in the article Hemp: Historical Fiber Remains Controversial suggests that certain measures must be taken in order to legalize industrial hemp in the United States. Increasing the awareness and providing the public with the adequate education will aid in diminishing the negative stigma that’s associated with hemp.  Additional research and as well as the commitment to improve specific areas concerning the processing and production of hemp are necessary solutions that if taken will detract from the negative stereotypes and attitudes that are often associated with hemp.

Without a doubt I consider hemp to be the miracle fiber of the future.  Organic cotton has the potential to become a miracle fiber in the future, but many measure must be taken to refine the systems of production and certification.  I do not consider bamboo as a miracle fiber of the future.  Bamboo has far to many similarities to rayon most of which are unsustainable and negatively impact the environment.  The barriers that impact the success of miracle fibers are consumers lack of education and awareness. Knowledge and communication are intertwined and one without the other cannot fully serve the purpose that it’s intended for.  Consumers, politicians, business owners, and government institutions can integrate these component into society to ensure a sustainable future.

GIRL POWER & SUSTAINABILITY

What are some of the things that you associate with the 1990s? I associate the 90s with  grunge fashion manufactured by Kurt Cobain, TY beanie babies, Super Nintendo, Jnco Jeans, Bill Clinton’s infamous ‘apology’ to the public, and the Power Rangers.  However, if I had to choose the one thing that truly sums up the 90s it would be the SPICE GIRLS. During the 90s I wasn’t just a fan of the SPICE GIRLS... I was THE FAN. I bought every c.d. and probably watched SPICE World close to a hundred times.  My childhood best friend also loved the Spice Girls and one of our favorite past times was assuming the alter egos of Baby Spice and Posh Spice. (mine being Baby Spice of course)  However, we could only take on these alter egos at my house because her mother banned anything that had to do with the Spice Girls from her household.  Her mother viewed the Spice Girls as cultural cultivators that oozed bad morals and promiscuity. She was concerned that allowing her daughter to be expose to their music would subtly cultivate her perceptions of reality.  In simpler terms, she didn’t want my friend to listen to their music because it would influence bad behavior and decisions.  Areas much broader than cultural issues can be cultivated by individuals.  The cultivation of cotton is viewed by some as profitable crop that creates clothing that’s comfortable to wear.  I associate the cultivation of cotton with a mixture of unsustainable procedures that actively deplete our environment.   Growing cotton may cultivate money, but ultimately the practices of growing cotton are cultivating unsustainably harmful impacts to humans and the environment.  

“Cotton can be grown using a wide range of cultivation practices determined by climate, soil type, availability of inputs, and possibly most importantly, the knowledge and skills of the farmer.” (The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment)  The most common systems used in cotton cultivation are conventional, organic, and integrated pest management (IPM).  The three systems used in cotton cultivation all engage in applications that are unsustainable for the environment.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment report the following problems in sustainability related to cotton cultivation:

• degraded land as result of salinization and erosion
• water depletion by excessive use of soil and surface water
• natural habitat conversion due to cutting of forests and dam constructions
• eutrophication of surface water
• wildlife contamination by pesticides
• human health due to direct pesticide intake 

The irrigation phase of cotton cultivation has significant environmental impacts.  The irrigation used for large scale cultivation projects most commonly utilized in the United States, manipulate excessive amounts of water unsustainably.  The excessive amounts of water used in the cultivation of cotton has contributed to water shortages that directly impact wildlife and humans.  Soil salinization also arises due to land being degrading during the irrigation phase of cotton cultivation.  The Aral Sea, is a wonderful example that accurately conveys the detrimental impacts that can result due to excessive water use.  At one time the Aral Sea area was the one of the biggest cotton providers for the USSR.  The overuse of water has contributed to the Aral Sea experiencing a huge decline in sea area levels, fish and plant species, and the fishing industry.  In the United States the High Plains Ogallala aquifer is rapidly becoming the modern day Aral Sea.  This aquifer provides water to the majority of the cotton crops that are cultivated in the southern portions of the United States.  However, the High Plains Ogallala aquifer is estimated to be “8 times faster than nature is replenishing.”  This abuse will not cease until the necessary measures are taken to refine the process of cotton cultivation. 

Organic and synthetic fertilizers are used in the cotton cultivation process.  The ingredients such as nitrate and phosphorous, commonly found in synthetic fertilizers, easily bind to surfaces, groundwater, and sediments.  Ultimately this contributes to eutrophication, which has a “devastating effect on aquatic ecosystems leading to, for example, algae growth, depletion of oxygen and a decline in aquatic plants and animals.” (The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment) The usage of synthetic fertilizers in the cultivation of cotton also contributes to global warming.  Similar to fertilizers, the application of pesticides in cotton cultivation have highly unsustainable impacts on the environment and humans.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment addresses the “pesticide use in cotton cultivation in developing countries is high: about 50% of pesticides are used in cotton cultivation and the types of pesticides used tend to be highly toxic and, although several developed countries.”  It’s also reported “in developing countries much conventional farming is far from sustainable, with demonstrated heavy pesticide impacts on the environment and on people.”  Many developing countries are devoted participants in the cultivation of cotton and these regions are the most susceptible to experiencing a larger amount of inequalities and disparities compared to developed countries.  The workers in developing countries lack the knowledge and awareness to comprehend the negative side effects associated with the application of pesticides.  In addition to the harmful impacts pesticides have on human, they’re also very harmful to the environment.  The majority of the environmental damages caused by pesticides are unintentional and often result from poor management practices.  “It is estimated that pesticides unintentionally kill 67 million birds each year.”(The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment)  In Pakistan and Shukla, the groundwater is now contaminated due to the constant use of pesticides in cotton cultivation.

Deforestation often occurs to provide more land specifically to increase the area allotted in the cultivation of cotton.  The environmental impacts of deforestation contributes to the loss of biodiversity, soil erosion, and global warming.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment reports “very large cotton fields existing in the USA and Australia may have significant impact on biodiversity.”  Many of the contributors to the unsustainable practices utilized in the cultivation of cotton are motivated by the profitability of this supposed ‘cash crop’ and fail recognize the detrimental impacts that their reaping on the environment.  Before reading this article I thought the organic cultivation of cotton had far superior sustainable practices compared to conventionally grown cotton.  However, organic and conventional systems each posses a significant amount of unsustainable techniques and practices.  For example, “when organic growers apply improper amounts of organic/natural fertilizers or apply them when the crop does not need fertilizer, they contribute to the same unsustainable elements as high input conventional systems.” (The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment)  All production systems, conventional, organic, and IPM, may use different techniques, but all in some way or another actively engage in cultivating cotton through the usage of unsustainable practices that deplete the environment of its natural resources.

Solutions are being developed in cotton cultivation that are more sustainable for the environment.  The video Cotton & Water: white, blue, and green on the Cotton Inc. website gives us hope that in the future cotton will be cultivated using more sustainable farming techniques and practices.  Over the past thirty years, many experts have predicted global water shortages to worsen.  This has now become a reality and due to the increase of global water shortages more sustainable practices in water conservation are being developed and administered in the cultivation of cotton. Similar reports, from Cotton Inc. and The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment, agree that cotton can be cultivated by using less water and the quality will not be sacrificed.  Cotton Inc. has begun to implement new procedures to address the unsustainable impacts that cotton cultivation contributes to soil erosion.  Conservation tillage is a newly developed method that helps reduce soil erosion.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequence for man and environment also attributes the method of conservation tillage as a promising technique in cotton cultivation to help minimize soil erosion.  Conservation tillage protects the soil enabling it to soak up more rainfall and produces more CO2 into the atmosphere.  I’m hopeful that further techniques will be developed to ensure more sustainable practices in cotton cultivation.

"I'm sorry but your out"-Heidi Klum

Picture this.  Your standing at the end of a fashion runway and right beside you is the model you selected to showcase your latest design.  As you stand and wait for the panel of judges, consisting of Michael Kors, Nina Garcia, and Heidi Klum, to reveal their verdict your anticipation grows.  Finally the judges reach their decision and your deepest fears are confirmed when you hear the phrase you’ve been dreading all along, “I’m sorry but your out.” Now try to picture this, you’ve recently been hired as a new designer for a design firm.  As your partaking in the daily gossip around the water cooler, you’re approached by the CEO who informs you the company is being indicted for excessive carbon emission and toxic waste dumping.  The CEO firmly believes that using the alternative fibers bamboo, organic cotton, and recycled PET will prevent any future legal issues. However, your hesitant that the proposed solutions would lack in its overall effectiveness in addressing the issue at large.  You decide to use this as an opportunity to prove your talents and abilities to the company’s CEO.  Although many positive outcomes are likely to result, their is a slight risk that the CEO will absolutely hate your ideas. You do not want to hear the dreaded phrase, “I’m sorry but your out” from your company’s CEO.  To ensure that this phrase is not uttered, you decided to commit all of your efforts in researching and finding the most sustainable alternatives your company can use in the future.

The first step in finding the most appropriate sustainable fiber alternative is to contemplate the ‘big picture’ issues and ‘small picture’ details.  To achieve a sustainable environment one must take into account the significant trade-offs that are inevitable.  The majority of all fiber alternatives have some sort of ‘trade-offs’, the key is to find which ‘trade-off’ will have the greatest overall impact on the environment.  The solutions that the CEO proposed are all sustainable alternatives, however their are other alternatives that have even more potential.  It is not a wise decision to use bamboo as a fiber alternative because “there is limited information available about the processing route for natural bamboo fibre and it appears its commercial production is at present limited to a single company in China.”(Sustainable Fashion and Textiles)  Bamboo is a safer cellulosic fiber alternative, but the properties of this fiber are almost identical to the fiber viscose.  The bamboo production process still release a considerable amount of air and gas emissions into the environment.  A more sustainable alternative is the cellulosic fiber, lyocell.  Lyocell is an “environmentally responsible fiber utilizing renewable resources as its raw materials.” (Sustainable Fashion and Textiles)  Lyocell has many environmental benefits including “reduced chemical, water and energy consumption in dyeing.” (Sustainable Fashion and Textiles).  A ‘trade-off’ of using lyocell is the highly energy intensive process, but the environmental benefits of using this fiber greatly outweigh this potential ‘trade-off.’ 

Organically grown cotton is a wonderful alternative in replacing the use of conventionally cotton.  The most important benefit of producing cotton organically is it does not use pesticides, fertilizers, and water.  Organic cotton production reduces the toxicity of the overall product by an astounding 93%.  Organic cotton products look extremely identical to conventional cotton products, thus it’s likely to go unnoticed by consumer’s.  However, it’s likely that the CEO didn’t take into account the long and costly process involved in the transitional stages from conventionally cotton to organic cotton production.  Also, if the CEO intends to use organic cotton production to produce a large volume of products, then this would not be the best alternative because of the limited supply of organic fiber needed for blending.  The alternative fiber, hemp, has many of the benefits that organic cotton encompasses.  Unlike organic cotton, limited supply is not an issue, “hemp grows very rapidly, naturally smothering weeds and controlling pests, and so is thought to be suited to low impact systems of agriculture.”  Hemp is described as a ‘double dividend’, “a reduction in the ecological footprint of production by about half, if grown to replace cotton for use in textiles, and wood for use in the pulp and paper industries.” (Sustainable Fashion and Materials)  High labor costs is one of the few downsides of using hemp as an alternative fiber.  A solution to reducing labor costs is assembling a research team to help find more appropriate fiber extraction alternatives.  The company could also hold a competition that awarded a cash prize to the person with the best idea, in terms of enhancing the fiber extraction process.  Consumer’s may be hesitant at first in consuming products made from hemp, but the company could help reduce this hesitation by increasing customer’s awareness of the many environmentally harmful effects associated with the production of conventionally grown cotton products.  

The disadvantages associated with the use of recyclable PET as a fiber alternative mainly affects consumers.  Products that use recyclable PET are extremely unsuitable for many of the methods used in the processing and finishing stages of production.  Products made from recyclable PET cannot withstand transfer printing and dyeing fiber is extremely, thus eliminating many of the end uses for the potential products.  More importantly, products using recyclable PET cannot be ironed and this would cause many consumer’s to be detracted from purchasing products made from this fiber alternative.  The best alternative solution would be ending the use of polyester and polyester alternatives all together.  However, “choosing fabrics not made with catalytic agents containing cobalt or manganese salts and those that avoid antimony based catalyst.” (Sustainable Fashion and Textiles)  Using this solution would help control the amount of hazardous air and water emissions that are damaging to the environment.  Many solutions are being developed  to help provide even more sustainable alternatives.  In the  video presentation, “Sustainability: Innovation’s New Frontier” the guest speaker, Charline Ducas, discusses the development of renewable resources.  The development of enzyme treatments and solutions, in addition to new alternatives such as rislan, radiospandex, and polyactic acid, give us hope for the future that more sustainable fiber alternatives for polyester will be developed.