Fashion ADHD

We live in a world where resources are easily at our disposal.  This has created many advantages for consumers and many disadvantages for the environment.  My design concept this week is targeted towards the group of over consumers.  Over consumers have a bottomless appetite for resources that cannot be satisfied.  The potential environmental implications that can result from their abuse of resources is far from their concern.  The apparel and textile industry have aided in the adoption of over consumption by making ‘fast fashions’ easily accessible and affordable.  Over consumers prefer quantity over quality.  I’m guilty of over consuming, a $10 shirt from Forever 21 sounds more appealing than spending $80 on a shirt that’s of higher in quality.  Fashion changes day by day and as a result many consumers are constantly on a quest to reinvent their styles.  Fast Fashions enable over consumers to purchase the latest fashions at a more affordable price.  However, what inevitably ends up happening is a consumers grows tired of the product then improperly disposes of it to go out and buy a new product that fulfills their latest style desires. I like to refer to this unsustainable cycle as fashion ADHD.  

My design concept is a solution that prescribes a sustainable antidotes to combat the effects of fashion ADHD.  In the reading Design Activism: Beautiful Strangeness for a Sustainable World, sustainability is described as learning how to live well, but consuming less.  Sustainability is constructed of many layers that include social, political, cultural, economic, and ethical aspects.  In order for designers, retailers, and manufacturers to become design activist they must intertwine the different aspects to formulate one sustainable strategy.  The concept of my design allows clothing to be loaded into a printer using water based flexo ink to print patterns and designs on clothing.  It would look similar to a computer printer, but much bigger in size.  Retailers and designers would place the printers in local retail stores.  When purchasing a product the consumer would select a design and/or pattern.  Once the design is selected the item is fed into the printer which then transfers the graphic onto the item.  The printer’s ink would not be permanent and after washing the item multiple times the graphic would eventually disappear.  Once the graphic disappears the consumer could go online to the retailers website to view the retailers library of patterns and designs.  After a pattern is selected the consumer would bring the original item to the store and a sales associate would then feed the item into the printer.  The intent of this design concept is to provide consumers with more sustainable options to easily reinvent their styles.  This would increase the lifecycle's of clothing because it would provide consumers with the ability to easily change the appearance of clothing.  The fashion urges of consumers would be fulfilled and as a result, the overall consumption of ‘fast fashions’ would greatly be reduced.  The amount of water that’s usually consumed during the dyeing and production process would also significantly be reduced.  By eliminating the dyeing process workers as well as consumers would no longer be exposed to the harmful chemicals and additives that are commonly found in dyes. 

Example of the retailer's online pattern library

This design concept applies a similar method of design activism that’s described in Design Activism: Beautiful Strangeness for a Sustainable World.  The ‘halfway‘ products that are described allow consumers to take part in the design process.  “In a halfway product, the designer/maker/manufacture only takes the product so far, leaving a space for the user to complete the making.”   As a result, consumers will feel more connected to their products knowing that they took part in the creation process.  Similar to ‘halfway’ products, my design concept would also integrate consumers into the design process of products.  By applying my design concept consumers will feel more emotionally connected to their products as well as to the designer and/or retailer that produces them.  Longterm relationships between consumers and retailers would evolve in the application of my design concept.  Retailer's would be more likely to increase the awareness of consumers, seeing that the customer loyalty is more prevalent.  Retailer's would introduce their customers to this design concept by placing a brief description on tags of clothing.  Retailer's could also advertise this new design concept on the company’s website by featuring an extensive pattern library that adequately showcases their product offerings.  Ultimately, retailers could use this design concept to stress the importance of mindful resource consumption and sustainable production.

In closing, before taking this course I never took into account how my actions could potentially impact the environment.  Needless to say the concept of sustainability was far from my mind.  The most important thing that I learned from this course is the detrimental implications that are forced onto the environment due to the carless practices of the apparel and textile industry.  I intend to integrate this knowledge into my patterns of consumption.  I am defiantly more hesitant to buy clothing that contains certain fibers and I’ve become a staunch advocate concerning the legalization of hemp. I would like to learn more about the battle of legalizing hemp because I found this debate to be extremely compelling.  I’m absolutely certain that if more consumers had a greater awareness of the advantages of hemp it would help in diminishing the negative stigmas that are commonly associated with the fiber.  This course has taught me that sustainability is not merely just a practice or concept, it’s a lifestyle choice that’s imperative for survival and future development.

COMPOST- NOT AS SMELLY AS YOU WOULD THINK!

What are some of the first words that enter your mind when you hear the word COMPOST?  In the past, whenever I heard the word compost, I would commonly associate it with two adjectives, smelly and dirty.  Countless individual’s, including myself, have several misconceptions regarding the process as well as the benefits of compositing.  The amount of waste generated by humans has rapidly increased due to our resource heavy appetites.  Often times, waste is not properly disposed, inevitably ending up in landfills.  Using the methods of composting, provides a solution to improper waste disposal by incorporating the Cradle to Cradle concept of waste=food.  When composted, products constructed 

from natural fibers and materials are transformed into biological nutrients that nourish and replenish our environment.  

This week, I was inspired by the Cradle to Cradle concept that focuses on biological nutrients.  In order, for a product to fall into the biological nutrient category, it can only be constructed from materials that can be recycled back into nature.  Biological nutrients do not impact the environment negatively.  Unlike technical nutrients, biological nutrients enrich the nature of our environment.  Products constructed from natural materials that can easily be composted is the focus of my design concept this week.  In the article, C2CAD: a sustainable apparel design and production model, the author Gam describes four steps that can be used to effectively integrate the framework of the cradle to cradle model into the practices of production.  The four steps include, problem definition and research, sample making, solution development and collaboration and production.  After reading the assigned articles, it became very apparent to me that mixing technical and biological nutrients complicates the disposal process, inevitably making it more energy intensive.  Products containing biological and technical nutrients must undergo the separation process to ensure each material is properly disposed.  In my opinion, the separation process is labor intensive and it’s very unlikely retailers, manufacturers, and designers will actually follow through with this process.  

The concept that I designed reiterates Gam’s first step which is focuses on problem definition and research.  Many of the problems and frustrations of retailers and designers could be completely avoided by putting forth the effort to avoid mixing biological and technical nutrients.  In the application of my design concept, products would be constructed solely from biological nutrients or technical nutrients, not a mixture of both.  After clothing has reached the end of its lifecycle, consumers would compost the products made from biological nutrients and products made from technical nutrients would be sent back to retailers to reuse.  The following example helps illustrate the foundation of my design concept.   To apply my design concept, a designer would first need to determine if she would use biological nutrients or technical nutrients to construct her envisioned design.  In this scenario the designer chooses the more natural route, biological nutrients.  To construct her envisioned design, a dainty collared button-down blouse, she selects fabric that’s made from organic cotton and uses this fabric as the basis of her design.  To assemble the different panels of the shirt the designer uses thread that’s biodegradable.  The next step of my design concept is influenced by Gam’s collaboration approach and by the ethical and sustainable production methods discussed in the article, Textile futures: Fashion, design, and technology.  After the shirt is fully assembled, it’s transferred to sustainable manufacturer, who would then dye and add the trimmings to the shirt.  The manufacturers would use only natural dyes, similar to the dyes discussed in the article by Gam.  Once the shirt is dyed, the trimmings are added by the manufacturers to the shirt.  The buttons and/or trimmings are unlike the typical plastic buttons that are usually found on shirts.  The buttons are made from biodegradable materials, such as corn.  By using only biological nutrients, such as  organic cotton and biodegradable thread and buttons, eases the disposal process for consumers as well as the apparel and textile industry. 

Biodegradable button from the website-http://www.hktdc.com/suppliers-products/Biodegradable-button/en/1X0669UF/1290474

         My design concept reflects many of the design aspects discussed in the articles by Gam and Quinn.  Quinn stresses the importance of taking a more innovative approach that rethinks and reinvents new ways to reuse textiles.  The points made by Quinn inspired the versatility of my design concept.  The congruence of materials and the four-season sustainability methodology, are two aspects Gam strongly emphasized throughout the article.  Ultimately Gam’s ideas helped me form the basis of my design concept that revolved mostly around the composition of materials purely constructed from either biological nutrients or technical nutrients.

One man's trash is another man's treasure

My sister was an extremely picky eater as a child and this made the majority of our meals as a family extremely unpleasant.  Every night the same scenario would repeat itself, my sister would hate the meal and refuse to eat it and my mother would become extremely irritated.  The stubborn nature of both my mother and sister often caused the two to engage in nightly dinner stand-offs that could last for hours.  Usually after an hour my mom would realize this was a battle that she could not win and eventually dismiss my sister from the dinner table.  My mother would make her way to the kitchen sink to wash the full plate of food and in disgust she would look over at my sister and say, “you know kids in China are starving and would love to eat this!”  The idea of my sister wasting food truly irritated my mother.  However, if you were to ask the opinion of a manufacturer that utilized the cradle to cradle system of design I’m certain you would get  a completely different response.

Cradle to cradle design is a production process where the concept of waste doesn’t exist.  In the cradle to cradle production process every resource and material is fully utilized by manufacturers and producers.  Each product is designed with the intent to provide the planet with some form of nourishment.  In the very beginning of the production process the manufacturer and/or producer determines each products fundamental purpose.  Products have more than just a functional purpose, rather products are designed to feed the earth’s biological or technical metabolism.  The concept of my design is based on the technical cycle of the cradle to cradle model.  The technical cycle is a closed loop system where materials are circulated and reused.  Materials are designed to be products of service that can be enjoyed by a variety of consumers.

The eco-leasing and “rent-a-solvent” concepts described by McDonough and Braungart helped me form the basis of my design concept.  My concept incorporates the technical metabolism that largely focus on reusable service based products.  Instead, of purchasing apparel products all products would be leased to customers.  For example, if a consumer wanted a blue blouse from the GAP she would go to the company’s retail store.  Products would be displayed on fixtures and mannequins and grouped by size.  Once desired product is selected the customer will proceed to the cash register to complete the leasing transaction.  The GAP employee would put the name of the customer in the company’s database that’s designed to track and monitor the company’s inventory.  The customer pays a leasing fee for the product that she will have for a defined period of time.  Once the specified period ends she will be expected to return the item to the retail store.  The company database would have the customers credit card information on file.  This is a measure that’s taken by retailers to ensure that customers return the leased items on time.  If the customer fails to return the item the retailer will charge the customer until the item is returned.  Consumers also have the option of going on retailers website in order to browse the products leased by the retailer.  The website allows consumers to reserve specific items based on the products availability.

Manufacturers are largely responsible in constructing sustainable products that are high in quality.  The transportation process that’s often used by retailers to transport products can have many detrimental affects on the environment.  To avoid the depletion of the environment retailers hire local manufacturers to produce and design products.  Localized production will boost local economies and retailers profits will steadily increase due to the reduction of costs.  According to McDonough and Braungar, consumers enjoying buying new products because it makes them feel more powerful and unique.  This is a significant barrier that poses a threat in the future adoption of systems using the cradle to cradle design. The following quote by Albert Einstein was featured in the beginning of the cradle to cradle application video, “the significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.”  I found this quote to be powerful as well as inspirational.  Ultimately this quote helped me determine the distinct roles that would be assigned to manufacturers in my design concept.  The role of manufacturers is developing new and creative ways to reuse the worn out materials from previously leased products.  Manufacturers creative utilization of materials will give retailers a creative edge while also giving consumers the opportunity to lease products with unique characteristics.  The video and the excerpt from McDonough and Braungar’s book both reiterate the importance of being fully aware of every aspect of a product.  My design concept is intended to look at the different angles of a product as well provide waste free materials as a means to enrich a products technical metabolism.

  

Out with the Global, in with the Local

If your an Oklahoma resident who enjoys shopping at Urban Outfitters, H&M, American Apparel, or Free People I’m sure you share the same frustrations regarding the extremely limited shopping selections that our great state has to offer.  An Oklahoma resident has two options: Option A is shopping online or Option B is driving to Dallas and/or other surrounding states.  Try to imagine the amount of time and money you would save if all of these stores were located in Oklahoma.  Many benefits are associated with localizing the production of apparel and textile products.  A design concept of a sustainable future focuses on producing products locally which ultimately reinforces the concept of sustainability and further enhances the lives of consumers.

According to Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys, “the global market in textile production means that many textile products are transported several times between processors before a product reaches a user- indeed it is thought that the average T-shirt travels the equivalent distance of once around the globe during its production.”  The transportation of textile products negatively impacts our environment by enlarging  the size of our carbon footprint.  To preserve our environment for future generations to enjoy we must eliminate the production methods that do not mimic the characteristics of nature.  The author Benyus eloquently states “nature doesn’t commute to work”, thus further reinforcing the importance of incorporating the qualities of nature into the various practices of production. Globally mass producing products defies the limits of nature and results in unsustainable impacts on the environment as well as the lives of consumers.  A design concept of a sustainable future is founded on the principle that advocates to diversify and cooperate to fully use the resources of our natural habitats.   Focusing on this principle will significantly reduce the multitude of damages that are being posed on the environment through the global production of products.  My design concept for the future would require states to produce their own products by utilizing the natural resources that are currently available.  For example, the clothing outfitting the people of Oklahoma would be produced locally and the majority of products would feature materials made from cotton, seeing that cotton is largely cultivated in the southern portions of the United States.  The process of cultivating cotton would be purely organic and avoid irrigation methods that require excessive amounts of water.  

Another principle  this design concept is largely founded upon is gathering and using energy more efficiently.  Producing apparel and textile products within state lines would use less energy as opposed to producing products internationally.  The specifics of this design concept would encourage states to use their natural resources as well as employing local workers to construct and produce products.  States that lack an adequate supply of available natural resources have the option of using resources from other states.  However, resources obtained from other states would be more costly due to a new system of taxation that’s established by the government that taxes resources that are not locally grown and produced. Under this new regulations states would buy natural resources from other states, but each resource would be heavily taxed.  For example, if Washington state desired to produce products made from a natural resource that was currently unavailable in the state the state would have the option to purchase this particular resource from another state. If a state were to purchase resources from another state they would still be expected to produce the final product using local methods of production.  Concentrating on local levels of production will enhance local economies as well as minimize the environmental impacts relating to the transportation of products.  The taxation of resources that this design concept requires is used to encourage local producers to research potential alternatives for the future by exploring the science of biomimicry that’s described by Bradley Quinn.  The science of biomimicry studies animals and plants while exploring the variety of advantages humans could have by mimicking their systems and processes.  The incentive of this tax system is to motivate local producers to investigate other methods to which they could potentially utilize their available natural resources.  The fashion designer, Suzanne Lee, utilizes the science of biomimicry by combining the available resources such as, green tea, sugar, a few microbes, and a little time.  Combining these resources creates a bacterial cellulose that can be used to replace the use of fabrics and materials in textile and clothing products.

Localized production would essentially raise the awareness of consumers, thus further allowing consumers to become more educated relating to the concept of sustainability.   Many consumers cannot fully comprehend the future implications that will inevitably result from their unsustainable actions.  The concept of designing locally is invested in increasing the foresight of consumers by bringing environmentally fueled issues closer to home.  Residents of a localized community each assume the social responsibility to enrich their communities by optimizing their natural resources as well as consistently striving to develop new alternatives to creatively use the resources that mother nature supplies. 

Refusing to Satisfy the Appetites of Young Grasshoppers

Picture this:

It’s dinner time and you decide to dine at your favorite Chinese restaurant.  While polishing off a second helping of sesame chicken and beef lo mein, you ask yourself the question “should I or should I not make a third trip to the buffet?”  Upon your realization that a meal at a Chinese restaurant cannot be complete without a fortune cookie, you begin to move towards the buffet to quickly grab a fortune cookie.  Breaking the crispy layers of the fortune cooking you expect to find a fortune asserting a phrase like, “good things take time”, however your fortune states that, “Chinese food is satisfying in the moment young grasshopper, but isn’t long term.”   Chinese cuisine contains monosodium glutamate, an appetite suppressant, that leads you to believe your appetite has been satisfied, but an hour after eating the sensation of hunger returns.  Consumers consumption patterns and Chinese cuisine have several characteristics that are highly similar in nature.  Consumers actively consume in hopes that it will satisfy their needs and desires.  However, designers, retailers, and marketers employ “appetite suppressants”, such as advertisements, discount price lining, and celebrity endorsements to convince consumers to buy their products and/or services.  Persuading consumers into believing they NEED a product inevitably increasing the supply and demand of products. The design concepts I’ve developed to address the excessive consumption of consumers and its damaging impacts on the environment.

According to (Gradel & Allenby, 2002),industrial ecology is aligned with practices that ensure manufacturing is sustainable over the long term if properly defined and executed, continually updated in light of new data and understanding, and properly supported by enlightened government policies.”  Currently, our society is motivated purely by productivity and growth.  We focus more on the quantity of a product rather than the overall quality.  The multitude of media advertisements have generously contributed to our unhealthy fixation on mass producing an excessive amount of products.  From a young age we are conditioned to be efficient multi-taskers.  Energy drinks are one example of products marketed to consumers to encourage multi-tasking and efficiency.  For instance, the commercials for Red Bull energy drinks markets products with the catchy slogan that tries to convince consumers that drinking Red Bull will give them wings, thus leading to higher levels of efficiency.  The “quantity over quality” mentality that society currently possesses must be replaced by a new mentality that focuses on optimization rather than maximization.  According to (Benyus, 1997), implementing the principle of optimizing rather than maximizing will mean “being more competitive, doing more with less, and being more efficient than your competitor.” Integrating this principle into our environment will require consumers to be more mindful and conscious concerning the amount of products we consume.  To forward the progression of this principle requires a new design that transforms the concept of manufacturing.  The government would establish regulations that limited the amount of products that manufacturers are allowed to produce.  The government would determine the total amount of products that takes into account additional factors such as cultural, economic, social, and technological.  This policy is intended to encourage the production practices of manufacturers to reflect values representing quality not quantity.  Products that are high in quality and not cheaply made are more durable.  Applying government regulations to the systems of manufacturing will steer manufacturers and developers away from satisfying society’s bottomless appetite for consumption.  The government will integrate this design concept gradually into manufacturing systems in a sequence of four phases.  Implementing this design concept in four separate intervals is aimed towards allowing designers, manufacturers, and developers an adequate amount of time to adjust their methods of manufacturing to new sustainable alternatives that are long term solutions.  Manufacturers failing to adhere to the new government regulations employing this design concept will be fined then prosecuted if offenses continue to proceed.  Manufacturers as well as consumers maybe hesitant at first to this design concept because products that are higher in quality are likely to command higher prices.  However, by the end of the fourth phase consumers and manufacturers will become more acclimated with the regulations and recognize the financial and environmental benefits of this concept.  

An additional design concept that further addresses our unsustainable patterns of excessive consumption focuses on minimizing the use of materials.  Integrating this principle into the design concept, known as ‘tailor materialization’ is geared towards repressing the mental modes that encourages our patterns of excessive consumptions.  For instance, the mental modes possessed by individuals who use excessive amounts of products in order to increase social mobility and personal self worth. This design concept requires a mental mode that adheres to the “less is more” philosophy.  Throughout history the apparel and textile industry have repeatedly engaged in using unnecessary materials that fail to increase the functionality or utility of products.  In my design concept, clothing will no longer feature unnecessary materials that fails to enhance the product as a whole.  For example, the back pockets of jeans, pants, and shorts would be eliminated in order to conserve material.  Retailers and manufacturers would encourage the minimal use of materials by employing just in time manufacturing.  Jeans and pants would be produced based on the demand from consumers on a product to product basis.  However, an assortment of style ‘samples’ would be produced in terms of pants and jeans, that would be displayed on the sales floor and intended for consumers to try on.  For example, a consumer browsing at the Gap discovers a style of jeans that they really like.  The consumer would take the style “sample” that’s displayed on the sales floor back to the fitting rooms.  Upon entering the fitting rooms the consumer would be greeted by a seamstress that would have the consumer try on the pair of jeans to take her measurements in order to see if any length needed to be added or taken off.  Once the seamstress determines the exact measurements she would log on to the company’s database that interlinks each participate involved in the different phases of the company’s supply chain.  The seamstress would contact the manufacturers to specify the exact measurements of the specific style of jeans and/or pants.  At the request of the seamstress the manufacturer would construct the specified product and would be shipped on a weekly basis to the retailer.  This design concept would allow designers, manufacturers, and retailers to monitor the amount of materials that are used in their products.  Wisely monitoring the use of materials would considerably reduce costs, thus resulting in designers, retailers, and manufacturers experiencing an increase in profits.  Consumer’s can also benefit from the application of  ‘tailored materialization’ seeing that it enhances the value of products by customizing ‘one of a kind’ items for each consumer.

The fundamental purpose of my design concepts are aimed to reduce the patterns of over consumption.  We must apply the advice of (Benyus, 2007) that contends “the farther removed we become from nature in our attitudes, lifestyles, and spirituality, the more dependent we’ll become on the products of this transformation.”  Society as a whole must acquire similar environmental values in order to sustainably align our attitudes, lifestyles, and beliefs.  The possession of similar societal environmental values will essentially make the endeavor of integrating sustainable design concepts an easier process that’s more simplistic in nature.

Gandhi Knows Best

“Be the change you want to see in the world”- Mahatma Gandhi 

This quote is relevant towards achieving a sustainable future in more ways than one.  True change cannot be achieved without a sufficient foundation.  It’s easier to come up with characteristics that define the change you would like to see, but it’s more difficult to think of actions that ultimately drive the change you desire.  The ideas and characteristic that we associate with a sustainable future can only be achieved through implementing action.  In my opinion, the actions that will drive the change towards a more sustainable future include sufficiency, collaboration, innovation and balance.

Characteristic: Sufficient 

Mental Mode: I’m a minimalist, I do not need to use an excessive amount of resources to prove my self worth.  

In the article Limiting Consumption: Toward a Sustainable Culture accredits overconsumption with the “surging exploitation of resources that threatens to exhaust or unalterably disfigure forests, soils, water, air, and climate.”  To ensure a sustainable future we must critically evaluate our daily routines to help us determine the specific areas where we carelessly utilize unnecessary resources.  A large majority of our society believe that the earth has an infinite supply of resources that will never run out.  We must begin to view the environment as a living being because it has certain needs that must be met in order to ensure its survival.  The mindset, “presentation is everything” poses a significant threat that ultimately detracts our society from achieving a sustainable future.  The multitude of advertisements have caused many consumers to raise their expectations towards products and it will continue to progress if not addressed.  A possible solution is the government establishing more limitations on the number of advertisements that businesses are allowed to present to consumers.  A sustainable future avoids misleading consumers with mindless advertisements.

Characteristic:Collaborative

Mental Mode: Harmony and communication make all industries stronger.

For example, if the apparel and textile industry is committed to using less water in the production of its products, but the agriculture industry continues to use excessive amounts of water, the lack of collaboration among the two industries creates a toxic cycle that reinforces unsustainable management practices.  An environment will be more profitable when industries are unified by communication.  Mental modes similar to the “us vs. them” mentality creates an unhealthy dynamic that paralyzes our efforts in achieving a sustainable future.  Collaboration can be achieved through installing a mode of contemplative thinking, known as systems thinking.  “In systems thinking, sustainability is a dynamic process, featuring the networks of relationships among the purposeful motions toward a shared vision, the properties of a complex social ecological concept.”(Visioneering: an essential framework in sustainability science)   

Characteristic: Innovative

Mental Mode: I have the responsibility to create more alternatives that will ultimately benefit the future. 

Throughout this semester I’ve gained more awareness concerning the alternative fibers that can be used to substitute the use of natural and manufactured fibers. Many of these so called ‘alternatives’ also pose many threats that are detrimental to the environment.  We can take more actions to become more proactive in developing solutions that fully address the problem.  It’s also our duty to develop and design solutions that will ensure the longevity of our environment for future generations.  For example, the alternatives that can be used to substitute polyester fibers can also be extremely damaging to the environment.  Mental modes like “we’re wasting our energy in our quests to develop more sustainable alternatives because sustainability is a concept that cannot be accomplished” creates a barrier that directly impacts research and development.  A innovative future that’s sustainable can be accomplished  by “expanding our capacity for foresight, and we can do it by learning how to imagine many possibilities when we are thinking about the future.” (Thinking Ahead: The Value of Future Consciousness)  We must refuse to accept defeat and continue our quest to discover alternatives that are truly sustainable.

Characteristic: Well Balanced

Mental Mode: To find a solution to a problem I consider the environmental costs as well as the financial costs.

A decision cannot be a SOLUTION without evaluating the environmental and financial advantages and disadvantages.  For example, if a retailer only took into consideration the environmental costs involved in the production of goods it would be very difficult to obtain a sizable profit.  Our goal for the future must “involve not only the integration of disciplines, but also different views and knowledge in the processes of deliberation and assessment.”  Mental modes like “the only purpose of the environment is to line my pockets with money” is a mentality that’s hampering our growth.  A well balanced environment can be achieved through the mode of systems thinking.  When more people feel like their needs are being addressed the more receptive they will be towards change.   

The formula for a Sustainable Future: 

Sufficiency + Collaboration + Innovativeness + Balance = A Sustainable Future

Bamboozling a Hempster in Sheep's Clothing

Pro-Life or Pro-choice?

Pro-Death Penalty or Anti Death Penalty?

Pro-Gay Marriage or Anti-Gay Marriage?

I’m an individual that tries to steer clear of issues that involve politics, religion, or any other topic that’s morally fueled.  However, the focus of my blog this week aims to further examine and critique the arguments associated with the supposed "miracle fibers." 

The idiomatic expression “a wolf in sheep’s clothing” can be used to describe the sequence of events prompting the textile industry to reexamine the model of the certification systems utilized by the clothing and textile supply chains. The supposed ‘wolf’ in the Controversy Broiling; GM Cotton Against Organic is genetically modified cotton and the disguise that’s being worn resembles organic cotton.  In 2010 the Financial Times Deutschland reported, “large amounts of genetically modified cotton from India had been put on the German market as organic cotton.”  This led many consumers to question the authenticity of organic cotton.  Determined to win back their customers trust the organic textile industry sought a solution that would ultimately guarantee uncontaminated production. The author argues that organic integrity can only be achieved through the reform of current certification systems.  The model that shapes the Third Party Certification system fails to ensure the equal distribution of trade-offs among various contributors.  For example, “the inherent expense and paperwork required in a multilevel system discourages most small organic producers from being certified at all.”  To revamp certification systems the author suggests that we must “seek a model where certification transcends its generic limits and becomes a conscious effort from all the players in the chain, right from producers to the brands.” (Controversy Broiling; GM Cotton Against Organic)  Chetna Organic in India, is an example the author uses to strengthen his argument and to convey the substantial benefits of a certification system largely focused on mutual trust and commitment.  “Chetna Organic is an Organic and Fair-trade supply chain initiative to support small and marginal farmers to adapt sustainable agricultural practices.” (Controversy Broiling; GM Cotton Against Organic)  The certification model of Chetna Organic places a huge emphasis on long term commitment, social development, transparency through Internal Control Systems, and communication.  Evaluating the certification model utilized by  Chetna Organic from a farmers point of view, it would prove to be quite effective considering “Chetna farmers have a shareholding in the garmenting factory of Rajilakshimi Cotton Mills Limited to ensure that they have stakes in the supply chain.”  In addition, the suppliers investment in social development would significantly  benefit farmers, consumers, and the community as a whole.  The author has a very persuasive argument and I agree with all of the measures proposed by the author.  The argument presented by the author adequately took into account the different perspectives of stakeholders.   The author accomplished this by conveying the potential benefits that each stakeholder stands to gain through a reformed certification system that’s internalized. 

The article Are you Being Bamboozled: How to Avoid Mislabeling, argues that more combative measures must be taken to ensure clothing products containing bamboo fibers are accurately labeled.  The first paragraph of the article contains the most compelling arguments made by the author.  The following statement is featured in the opening sentence, “the truth is, most “bamboo” textile products, if not all are really rayon.”  The author then goes on to say “rayon is a manufactured polymer typically made using environmentally toxic chemicals in a process that emits hazardous pollutants into the air.”  It’s likely the arguments in the first paragraph would have the greatest impact on consumers.  Many consumers do not have the slightest idea regarding the similar properties in fiber that bamboo and rayon posses.  I’m almost certain that the author presenting this argument is a disgruntled consumer.  The clothing and textile industry are largely relied upon to increase the awareness and education of consumers. Consumers will feel instantly deceived that more preventative measures were not taken to increase their awareness.  Retailers and manufacturers may find the authors argument to be irrational and irrelevant, thus assuming no responsibility pertaining to deceptively labeling products.  The author addresses the argument that describes that “no one would dream of labeling a product as “spruce” or “pine”, but because it seems vaguely credible that bamboo plants could be made into fiber with minimal processing, the process is never discussed.”  I find this argument confusing and I’m certain consumers would also agree.  Overall, the arguments presented in this article were lackluster in nature and not highly convincing.  

The article Hemp: Historic Fiber Remains Controversial and the film Hempsters: Plant the Seed are arguments in favor of legalizing industrial hemp in the United States.  The article and the film view hemp as a sustainable alternative that can serve as a substitute form of cotton. Fundamentally one of the most compelling arguments presented in the article Hemp: Historic Fiber Remains Controversial includes the following quotation, “currently, it is legal to import hemp fibers and processed seeds into the U.S., but it is illegal to grow the plant here.”  It’s very hypocritical that the government will allow hemp to be imported into our country, but if an American dares to cultivate the crop it’s against the law.  It is this very issue that radically reduces the validity of the arguments made by politicians and government institutions in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp.  The article and film both point out that the strongest advocates in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp fail to acknowledge the multitude of environmental benefits that the cultivation of industrial hemp would provide.  Those in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp completely alter this issue by creating a fictitious facade that all morality will be lost  if industrial hemp is legalized.  Law enforcement and the United States Drug Enforcement Agency (DEA) are advocates strongly opposing the legalization of industrial hemp because they think it will be far too difficult to distinguish between hemp and marijuana crops.  The article argues that the growing methods for hemp and marijuana are significantly and noticeably different.  The film reinforces this argument by presenting pictures that accurately showcase the noticeable differences concerning the growing methods.  An advocate for legalizing industrial hemp suggests that the reservations of our government are merely a power struggle between the government and its citizens.  The advocate goes on to question if the government will also ban powder sugar because of its close resemblance to cocaine.  Those in opposition of legalizing industrial hemp argue that hemp is just a cuter name for marijuana.  They also argue that hemp contains THC, one of the main ingredients found in marijuana.  However, the article Hemp: Historical Fiber Remains Controversial disagrees and states that, “the subspecies used for making fiber, colloquially known as “industrial hemp:, reportedly contains too little of the hallucinogenic substance tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), between 0.1 and 0.4% to have an effect when smoked and, according to a number of sources, would make one quite ill.”  The article goes on to state that the “marijuana plant contains as much as 20% of THC.” A statement in the film that I found very compelling was “a person would have to smoke the quantity of hemp the size of a telephone poll in order to feel a slight buzz.”   The author in the article Hemp: Historical Fiber Remains Controversial suggests that certain measures must be taken in order to legalize industrial hemp in the United States. Increasing the awareness and providing the public with the adequate education will aid in diminishing the negative stigma that’s associated with hemp.  Additional research and as well as the commitment to improve specific areas concerning the processing and production of hemp are necessary solutions that if taken will detract from the negative stereotypes and attitudes that are often associated with hemp.

Without a doubt I consider hemp to be the miracle fiber of the future.  Organic cotton has the potential to become a miracle fiber in the future, but many measure must be taken to refine the systems of production and certification.  I do not consider bamboo as a miracle fiber of the future.  Bamboo has far to many similarities to rayon most of which are unsustainable and negatively impact the environment.  The barriers that impact the success of miracle fibers are consumers lack of education and awareness. Knowledge and communication are intertwined and one without the other cannot fully serve the purpose that it’s intended for.  Consumers, politicians, business owners, and government institutions can integrate these component into society to ensure a sustainable future.

GIRL POWER & SUSTAINABILITY

What are some of the things that you associate with the 1990s? I associate the 90s with  grunge fashion manufactured by Kurt Cobain, TY beanie babies, Super Nintendo, Jnco Jeans, Bill Clinton’s infamous ‘apology’ to the public, and the Power Rangers.  However, if I had to choose the one thing that truly sums up the 90s it would be the SPICE GIRLS. During the 90s I wasn’t just a fan of the SPICE GIRLS... I was THE FAN. I bought every c.d. and probably watched SPICE World close to a hundred times.  My childhood best friend also loved the Spice Girls and one of our favorite past times was assuming the alter egos of Baby Spice and Posh Spice. (mine being Baby Spice of course)  However, we could only take on these alter egos at my house because her mother banned anything that had to do with the Spice Girls from her household.  Her mother viewed the Spice Girls as cultural cultivators that oozed bad morals and promiscuity. She was concerned that allowing her daughter to be expose to their music would subtly cultivate her perceptions of reality.  In simpler terms, she didn’t want my friend to listen to their music because it would influence bad behavior and decisions.  Areas much broader than cultural issues can be cultivated by individuals.  The cultivation of cotton is viewed by some as profitable crop that creates clothing that’s comfortable to wear.  I associate the cultivation of cotton with a mixture of unsustainable procedures that actively deplete our environment.   Growing cotton may cultivate money, but ultimately the practices of growing cotton are cultivating unsustainably harmful impacts to humans and the environment.  

“Cotton can be grown using a wide range of cultivation practices determined by climate, soil type, availability of inputs, and possibly most importantly, the knowledge and skills of the farmer.” (The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment)  The most common systems used in cotton cultivation are conventional, organic, and integrated pest management (IPM).  The three systems used in cotton cultivation all engage in applications that are unsustainable for the environment.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment report the following problems in sustainability related to cotton cultivation:

• degraded land as result of salinization and erosion
• water depletion by excessive use of soil and surface water
• natural habitat conversion due to cutting of forests and dam constructions
• eutrophication of surface water
• wildlife contamination by pesticides
• human health due to direct pesticide intake 

The irrigation phase of cotton cultivation has significant environmental impacts.  The irrigation used for large scale cultivation projects most commonly utilized in the United States, manipulate excessive amounts of water unsustainably.  The excessive amounts of water used in the cultivation of cotton has contributed to water shortages that directly impact wildlife and humans.  Soil salinization also arises due to land being degrading during the irrigation phase of cotton cultivation.  The Aral Sea, is a wonderful example that accurately conveys the detrimental impacts that can result due to excessive water use.  At one time the Aral Sea area was the one of the biggest cotton providers for the USSR.  The overuse of water has contributed to the Aral Sea experiencing a huge decline in sea area levels, fish and plant species, and the fishing industry.  In the United States the High Plains Ogallala aquifer is rapidly becoming the modern day Aral Sea.  This aquifer provides water to the majority of the cotton crops that are cultivated in the southern portions of the United States.  However, the High Plains Ogallala aquifer is estimated to be “8 times faster than nature is replenishing.”  This abuse will not cease until the necessary measures are taken to refine the process of cotton cultivation. 

Organic and synthetic fertilizers are used in the cotton cultivation process.  The ingredients such as nitrate and phosphorous, commonly found in synthetic fertilizers, easily bind to surfaces, groundwater, and sediments.  Ultimately this contributes to eutrophication, which has a “devastating effect on aquatic ecosystems leading to, for example, algae growth, depletion of oxygen and a decline in aquatic plants and animals.” (The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment) The usage of synthetic fertilizers in the cultivation of cotton also contributes to global warming.  Similar to fertilizers, the application of pesticides in cotton cultivation have highly unsustainable impacts on the environment and humans.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment addresses the “pesticide use in cotton cultivation in developing countries is high: about 50% of pesticides are used in cotton cultivation and the types of pesticides used tend to be highly toxic and, although several developed countries.”  It’s also reported “in developing countries much conventional farming is far from sustainable, with demonstrated heavy pesticide impacts on the environment and on people.”  Many developing countries are devoted participants in the cultivation of cotton and these regions are the most susceptible to experiencing a larger amount of inequalities and disparities compared to developed countries.  The workers in developing countries lack the knowledge and awareness to comprehend the negative side effects associated with the application of pesticides.  In addition to the harmful impacts pesticides have on human, they’re also very harmful to the environment.  The majority of the environmental damages caused by pesticides are unintentional and often result from poor management practices.  “It is estimated that pesticides unintentionally kill 67 million birds each year.”(The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment)  In Pakistan and Shukla, the groundwater is now contaminated due to the constant use of pesticides in cotton cultivation.

Deforestation often occurs to provide more land specifically to increase the area allotted in the cultivation of cotton.  The environmental impacts of deforestation contributes to the loss of biodiversity, soil erosion, and global warming.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment reports “very large cotton fields existing in the USA and Australia may have significant impact on biodiversity.”  Many of the contributors to the unsustainable practices utilized in the cultivation of cotton are motivated by the profitability of this supposed ‘cash crop’ and fail recognize the detrimental impacts that their reaping on the environment.  Before reading this article I thought the organic cultivation of cotton had far superior sustainable practices compared to conventionally grown cotton.  However, organic and conventional systems each posses a significant amount of unsustainable techniques and practices.  For example, “when organic growers apply improper amounts of organic/natural fertilizers or apply them when the crop does not need fertilizer, they contribute to the same unsustainable elements as high input conventional systems.” (The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment)  All production systems, conventional, organic, and IPM, may use different techniques, but all in some way or another actively engage in cultivating cotton through the usage of unsustainable practices that deplete the environment of its natural resources.

Solutions are being developed in cotton cultivation that are more sustainable for the environment.  The video Cotton & Water: white, blue, and green on the Cotton Inc. website gives us hope that in the future cotton will be cultivated using more sustainable farming techniques and practices.  Over the past thirty years, many experts have predicted global water shortages to worsen.  This has now become a reality and due to the increase of global water shortages more sustainable practices in water conservation are being developed and administered in the cultivation of cotton. Similar reports, from Cotton Inc. and The Sustainability of Cotton: consequences for man and environment, agree that cotton can be cultivated by using less water and the quality will not be sacrificed.  Cotton Inc. has begun to implement new procedures to address the unsustainable impacts that cotton cultivation contributes to soil erosion.  Conservation tillage is a newly developed method that helps reduce soil erosion.  The Sustainability of Cotton: consequence for man and environment also attributes the method of conservation tillage as a promising technique in cotton cultivation to help minimize soil erosion.  Conservation tillage protects the soil enabling it to soak up more rainfall and produces more CO2 into the atmosphere.  I’m hopeful that further techniques will be developed to ensure more sustainable practices in cotton cultivation.

"I'm sorry but your out"-Heidi Klum

Picture this.  Your standing at the end of a fashion runway and right beside you is the model you selected to showcase your latest design.  As you stand and wait for the panel of judges, consisting of Michael Kors, Nina Garcia, and Heidi Klum, to reveal their verdict your anticipation grows.  Finally the judges reach their decision and your deepest fears are confirmed when you hear the phrase you’ve been dreading all along, “I’m sorry but your out.” Now try to picture this, you’ve recently been hired as a new designer for a design firm.  As your partaking in the daily gossip around the water cooler, you’re approached by the CEO who informs you the company is being indicted for excessive carbon emission and toxic waste dumping.  The CEO firmly believes that using the alternative fibers bamboo, organic cotton, and recycled PET will prevent any future legal issues. However, your hesitant that the proposed solutions would lack in its overall effectiveness in addressing the issue at large.  You decide to use this as an opportunity to prove your talents and abilities to the company’s CEO.  Although many positive outcomes are likely to result, their is a slight risk that the CEO will absolutely hate your ideas. You do not want to hear the dreaded phrase, “I’m sorry but your out” from your company’s CEO.  To ensure that this phrase is not uttered, you decided to commit all of your efforts in researching and finding the most sustainable alternatives your company can use in the future.

The first step in finding the most appropriate sustainable fiber alternative is to contemplate the ‘big picture’ issues and ‘small picture’ details.  To achieve a sustainable environment one must take into account the significant trade-offs that are inevitable.  The majority of all fiber alternatives have some sort of ‘trade-offs’, the key is to find which ‘trade-off’ will have the greatest overall impact on the environment.  The solutions that the CEO proposed are all sustainable alternatives, however their are other alternatives that have even more potential.  It is not a wise decision to use bamboo as a fiber alternative because “there is limited information available about the processing route for natural bamboo fibre and it appears its commercial production is at present limited to a single company in China.”(Sustainable Fashion and Textiles)  Bamboo is a safer cellulosic fiber alternative, but the properties of this fiber are almost identical to the fiber viscose.  The bamboo production process still release a considerable amount of air and gas emissions into the environment.  A more sustainable alternative is the cellulosic fiber, lyocell.  Lyocell is an “environmentally responsible fiber utilizing renewable resources as its raw materials.” (Sustainable Fashion and Textiles)  Lyocell has many environmental benefits including “reduced chemical, water and energy consumption in dyeing.” (Sustainable Fashion and Textiles).  A ‘trade-off’ of using lyocell is the highly energy intensive process, but the environmental benefits of using this fiber greatly outweigh this potential ‘trade-off.’ 

Organically grown cotton is a wonderful alternative in replacing the use of conventionally cotton.  The most important benefit of producing cotton organically is it does not use pesticides, fertilizers, and water.  Organic cotton production reduces the toxicity of the overall product by an astounding 93%.  Organic cotton products look extremely identical to conventional cotton products, thus it’s likely to go unnoticed by consumer’s.  However, it’s likely that the CEO didn’t take into account the long and costly process involved in the transitional stages from conventionally cotton to organic cotton production.  Also, if the CEO intends to use organic cotton production to produce a large volume of products, then this would not be the best alternative because of the limited supply of organic fiber needed for blending.  The alternative fiber, hemp, has many of the benefits that organic cotton encompasses.  Unlike organic cotton, limited supply is not an issue, “hemp grows very rapidly, naturally smothering weeds and controlling pests, and so is thought to be suited to low impact systems of agriculture.”  Hemp is described as a ‘double dividend’, “a reduction in the ecological footprint of production by about half, if grown to replace cotton for use in textiles, and wood for use in the pulp and paper industries.” (Sustainable Fashion and Materials)  High labor costs is one of the few downsides of using hemp as an alternative fiber.  A solution to reducing labor costs is assembling a research team to help find more appropriate fiber extraction alternatives.  The company could also hold a competition that awarded a cash prize to the person with the best idea, in terms of enhancing the fiber extraction process.  Consumer’s may be hesitant at first in consuming products made from hemp, but the company could help reduce this hesitation by increasing customer’s awareness of the many environmentally harmful effects associated with the production of conventionally grown cotton products.  

The disadvantages associated with the use of recyclable PET as a fiber alternative mainly affects consumers.  Products that use recyclable PET are extremely unsuitable for many of the methods used in the processing and finishing stages of production.  Products made from recyclable PET cannot withstand transfer printing and dyeing fiber is extremely, thus eliminating many of the end uses for the potential products.  More importantly, products using recyclable PET cannot be ironed and this would cause many consumer’s to be detracted from purchasing products made from this fiber alternative.  The best alternative solution would be ending the use of polyester and polyester alternatives all together.  However, “choosing fabrics not made with catalytic agents containing cobalt or manganese salts and those that avoid antimony based catalyst.” (Sustainable Fashion and Textiles)  Using this solution would help control the amount of hazardous air and water emissions that are damaging to the environment.  Many solutions are being developed  to help provide even more sustainable alternatives.  In the  video presentation, “Sustainability: Innovation’s New Frontier” the guest speaker, Charline Ducas, discusses the development of renewable resources.  The development of enzyme treatments and solutions, in addition to new alternatives such as rislan, radiospandex, and polyactic acid, give us hope for the future that more sustainable fiber alternatives for polyester will be developed.

Kathie Lee Gifford's sweatshop scandal.. say it ain't so!

I can vividly remember the exact moment when I was first introduced to the concept of sustainability.  The year was 1996 during a family vacation to California to visit my Aunt Jinnie.  From 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. the only television channel that was allowed in my Aunt Jinnie’s home was CSPAN, due to her overwhelming fascination of playing the stock market.  One day while eating lunch and watching CSPAN I became instantly intrigued when a picture of Kathie Lee Gifford flashed across the screen.  Being a huge fan of the Kathie Lee Gifford and Regis morning show, I was absolutely devastated when I heard she was being accused for using sweatshops to construct her clothing line for Wal-Mart.  Before, reading the assigned articles I never would’ve considered this piece of news as an issue correlated with sustainability.  However, after reading the articles I learned that to achieve more sustainable practices of managing the ecosystem services, we must begin to implement sustainable practices in all areas including laws, policies, rules, business strategies, and all stages of clothing and textile production.

The Fashioning Sustainability report states “clothing and textile industry is huge.  Worth over US $1 trillion worldwide, it contributes to 7% of world exports and employs approximately 26 million people.”  Unlike other industries and sectors, the stages of production in textile and clothing products involve many parties that perform specialized tasks.  ESMA describes “an effective set of responses that will ensure sustainable management of ecosystems services must directly address the indirect and drivers and must overcome the barriers related to”:

• Inappropriate institutional and governance arrangements
• Market failures and the misalignment of economic incentives.
• Social and behavioral factors
• Underinvestment in the development and diffusion of technology that could increase the efficiency of use of ecosystem services and reduce the impacts of certain drivers of ecosystem change.
• Insufficient knowledge involving ecosystem services and the environment.

The solutions outlined in the Fashioning Sustainability report are influenced by the specific barriers that ESMA views as highly important measures that must be taken to ensure more sustainable management practices of our ecosystem services.  

The Fashioning Sustainability report by Draper and Murray outlines a list of several preventive measures that can be taken to ensure the longevity of our environment.  The recommendations suggested by the Fashioning Sustainability report are largely influenced by the “promising interventions” outlined in the Ecosystem and Well-Being Synthesis.  The first recommendation made by the Fashioning Sustainability report involves the avoidance of using naturally grown raw materials that are not equivalent with sustainability standards.  I was very surprised to read the “organic cotton production is still less than 1 percent of total cotton production.”  (Fashioning Sustainability)  By implementing these actions in the materials stage of production will provide a significant contribution in addressing the ESMA “promising intervention” goal of taking measures to reduce aggregate consumption of unsustainably managed ecosystem services.  Another important issue that must be addressed is increasing water efficiency.  “In some cases over 10 tonnes of water are used to grow enough cotton to make 1 pair of jeans.” (Fashioning Sustainability)  To increase water efficiency we must begin adopting practices that include water harvesting and drip irrigation, a device that allows water to drip directly on the roots of a plants.  Water harvesting and drip irrigation methods are strongly influenced by the ESMA “promising intervention” of the “promotion of technologies that enable increased crop yields without harmful impacts related to water, nutrient, and pesticide use.”  Another recommendation that would positively impact the materials stage of production is beginning to incorporate the country of origin on the labeling of cotton products.  This action further addresses the “promising intervention” of improving the levels of communication and education with consumers.  An overall solution to increase more sustainable levels of management is substituting cotton with other natural materials like hemp.  “Hemp is four times stronger than cotton, twice resistant to abrasion, and more resistant to mildew, soiling, shrinkage and fading in the sun.” (Fashioning Sustainability) This solution addresses the ESMA’s goal concerning the “promotion of technologies that enable increased crop yields without harmful impacts related to water, nutrient, and pesticide use.”  

The suggested solutions concerning animal welfare in the materials stage of production can be achieved through companies raising awareness regarding cruelty free products.  If implemented these solutions would fulfill the ESMA “promising intervention” relating to the “increased transparency and accountability of government and private sector performance on decisions that have an impact on ecosystem.”   A solution for enhancing the materials, usage, and disposal stages  of production is incorporating the usage of renewable materials in fabrics and making it a point to recycle clothing and textile products.  This solution incorporates the ESMA “promising intervention” mechanism of reducing the practices of aggregate consumption that are unsustainable to the environment.  

Throughout the different stages of production a sizable amount of toxic chemicals are used in producing the fabrics. The people who are most at risk are the individuals employed by the dye factories.  “Dyestuff contains carcinogenic aniline dye and aromatic amines, which cause bladder cancer-the most common cancer in clothing production workforce.  Other chemicals can trigger asthma and allergies or affect fertility and alter neurological behavior and have been linked to breast cancer.” (Fashioning Sustainability)  A solution in preventing this issue could be achieved by companies increasing their safety regulations and standards.  Employers actively monitoring and encouraging more stringent safety regulations and standards would strengthen the lines of communication, thus maximizing accuracy and efficiency throughout the supply chain.  Overall, this solution would address the social and behavioral barriers outlined by the ESMA and reassure the overall transparency and accountability between private sectors, shareholders, government institutions, and businesses.  

Technological advancements throughout the past decade have significantly transformed the roles of humans in the manufacturing process.  The emergence of assembly lines during the Industrial Revolution shifted the reliance that was once placed on humans to computerized machinery.  The production of clothing and textile products is one of the few industries that continues to utilize human efforts in the manufacturing process.  Many of the workers involved in this process face poor working conditions and are poorly mistreated.   To increase the awareness of poor working conditions relating to human rights, boycotts, and supplier audit fatigue the Fashioning Sustainability report proposed a variety of solutions to address this issue.  The Ethical Trading Initiative is an organization created by the UK government that aligns the efforts of trade unions and companies to improve existing working conditions.  As a means of increasing transparency many companies have adopted the SA8000 standards and have begun including sustainability assessment in their annual reports.   Both measures provide consumers with external evidence involving the adoption of sustainable management practices.  The most powerful and influential contenders in the supply chain are retailers.  By retailers adopting sustainable management practices such as, fair pricing, lobbying, longer term commitments with suppliers, country of origin labeling, and auditing garment suppliers, provides the other parties involved in the production process  with encouragement and places a larger emphasis on social rewards. 

The ESMA has observed an emerging pattern that categorizes people either as “winners” or “losers”.  Countries that are under developed and lack adequate resources commonly fall into the “losers” category. The discrimination that exists between the two categories ultimately influenced the ESMA’s “promising intervention” relating to the “elimination of subsidies that promote excessive use of ecosystem services.”  The clothing and textile industry are beginning to take the measures to turn this goal into a reality.  “In November 2005, The Fair-trade Foundation announced standards for Fair-trade cotton to help ensure a fair price for cotton producers.  As a result a number of UK retailers have started to sell ranges of Fair-trade certified cotton clothing.”  (Fashioning Sustainability)  Manufacturers and retailers are also making strides competing in other avenues that are not purely driven by price.  For example, the lingerie manufacturer for Marks & Spencer’s, markets the use of sustainable management practices in the company’s advertisements.  Retailers are beginning to assess their personal contributions, in terms of their involvement in the depletion of the environment.  A method that helps retailers assess their overall involvement is assigning dollar values to the environmental costs associated with the various stages of production.  The authors James Walsh and Michael Brown exercised this method to evaluate the effectiveness of the clothing retailer, Patagonia.  To assign the dollar values associated with the environmental costs, Brown ad Walsh used a managerial accounting technique.  As a result, Walsh and Brown discovered the stage of production that commands the highest value of environmental costs is the usage stage involving washing and care methods.  The most significant piece of evidence that was derived from this study was “the environmental cost of growing conventional cotton is more than double the direct cost of producing the crop.”  In my opinion, I think the implementation of this pricing strategy would increase the awareness of all the parties involved in the various stages of production. 

After reading the Fashioning Sustainability report I was shocked to discover “as much as 80% of the carbon ‘footprint’ of clothing can be caused in its washing and care, contributing to climate change.”  Consumer’s in my opinion, are the most active participates that are engage in this unsustainable behavior.  Taking into consideration the “promising interventions” proposed by the ESMA, the clothing and textile industry are beginning to take the preventive measures to enhance their overall management relating to ecosystem services.  Encouraging consumer’s to incorporate sustainable washing and care methods into their daily activities, such as washing full loads at low temperatures and forgoing tumble drying and ironing clothing.  Brands and retailers are encouraging consumer’s to begin incorporating sustainable practices by applying chemical treatments and coatings to their products enabling consumer’s to wear clothing multiple times before having to wash it.  Shifting to more sustainable washing and care practices reiterates the ESMA “possible intervention” that addresses education and awareness.  

A significant amount of money, resources, and time are lost during the transportation stages of clothing and textile production.  ESMA outlines a “possible intervention” method that emphasizes a “greater use of economic instruments and market-based approaches in the management of ecosystem services.”  In the Fashioning Sustainability report several solutions are recommended to address the specific transportation issues.  One solution in particular that would help solve this crisis are retailers and brands placing a greater emphasis on buying products locally.  The positive outcome that’s likely to result from buying products locally are increased levels of communication resulting from reducing the number of parties involved in the production process.

  

The Fashioning Sustainability report brought to my attention that “increasing amounts of clothing is ending up in landfills when it could be recycled or reused.”  Consumer’s are solely responsible for this reported increase, but many consumer’s do not realize the severity of their actions relating to improper disposal.  Raising the awareness of consumer’s is the only effective solution to this growing problem.  Designers, retailers, celebrities, social and government institutions play a significant role in increasing the awareness and providing consumer’s with an adequate amount of education.  The active involvement of designers, retailers, celebrities, social and government institutions, and consumer’s will help in the efforts of preserving our environment and help achieve the goals emphasized by the ESMA and the Fashioning Sustainability report.  

Anti-Eco... Americas New Taboo

       Has the thought ever crossed your mind while boarding an airplane to make an announcement to fellow passengers that you’re an aspiring terrorist?  Or have you ever considered openly cursing inside a church?  It’s very likely these particular thoughts have never entered your mind.  This is largely in part of society conditioning us to abstain from certain habits and practices that are perceived as social taboos.  Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines the word taboo as “a prohibition imposed by social custom or a protective measure.”  As the sustainability movement continues grow more Americans are becoming more knowledgable in regards, to the specific practices that a sustainable lifestyle requires.  Sustainability is an issue that many American’s don’t fully grasp, but do to the constant media coverage more people are willing to jump on the eco friendly bandwagon.  I’m fairly certain that I do not know one individual who strongly opposes the concept of sustainability.  In fact, the opposition of sustainability is slowly becoming a new social taboo that many individuals deem as being unpatriotic or un-American.  Regardless, whether you support sustainable development or not we must become more proactive in our efforts to put an end to the ecological crisis that’s brewing in the horizon.   

Prior to taking this course, my knowledge concerning the topic of sustainability was very limited.  However, as I further educate myself on this issue I have come to the realization that their are many layers to sustainability.  I believe with great certitude that the world as a whole is engaging in actions that are intensifying the approaching ecological crisis that’s upon us.  Research derived from the Ecosystem and Human Well-being: Synthesis discuss the implications that we are currently facing and how these will impact future generations. Recent media coverage has brought it to my attention that some individual’s strongly oppose the sustainability movement.  The ex GOP presidential candidate, Michele Bachmann, received a considerable amount of attention due to her interesting political platform and ideals concerning the environment.  The blogger Andrew Schenkel for the Mother Nature Network wrote an interesting article that highlighted Bachmann’s philosophies about environmental issues.  Once I became more aware of Bachmann’s radical views I had a difficult time comprehending her reasoning behind her strong opposition of this issue.  In Schenkel’s article, Michele Bachmann Environmental Record, I became aware that Bauchmann fails to acknowledge that climate change even exists.  She has “consistently voted against government promotion of energy conservation.”  In fact, Bachmann believes that the entire issue of global warming is a conspiracy.  Bachmann was quoted saying,“The big think we are working on now is the global warming hoax.  It’s all voodoo, nonsense, hokum, a hoax.”(Schenkel) The article goes on to report “Bachmann doesn’t buy the idea that emissions from power plants, cars, trucks and industry are trapping heat and warming the planet.”(Schenkel)  Michele Bachmann firmly believes that the concept of global warming was invented by the government.  She’s also a vocal advocate of drilling for oil in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.  This type ideology in my opinion, is one of the underlying causes that will inevitably lead to an ecological crisis that cannot be reversed.

  In opposition of Bachmann’s beliefs, an abundance of research gathered throughout the years effectively discount the validity of her supposed theories.  The likelihood of an ecological crisis is becoming more of a reality as society continues to abuse ecosystem services that includes, food, fiber, genetic resources, biochemicals, natural medicines, pharmaceuticals, fresh water, air regulation, climate regulation, water regulation, water purification, disease regulation, pest regulation, pollination, natural hazard regulation, religious values, aesthetic values, and recreation and ecotourism.  Research conducted by the Millennium Ecosystem Assessment reveals that 60% of ecosystem services are being used by humans unsustainably.  Many do not consider the long-term repercussions and merely dismiss the issue.  Many American’s have grown up enjoying the luxury having an infinite amount of resources at their fingertips.  For example, if our computer’s are running slower than usual we become very unsatisfied with this so called “dated” technology and immediately go to MAC store to purchase a newer model that’s faster and has more storage.  Another example, probably most prevalent in females, are the feelings that arise randomly when you find yourself hating absolutely everything in your closet.  To satisfy this need you will venture to the mall to purchase a new wardrobe to free yourself of the unwanted feelings that your currently experiencing.  Ecological resources differ from these examples because they cannot be easily duplicated and they’re not infinite in nature.  Greed and carelessness are driving forces behind the degradation of vital resources.  As reported in the Ecosystems and Human Well-Being Synthesis within the last few decades our environment has experienced significant damages.  The following statistics accurately convey the severity of these damages:  

• 20% of the earth’s land have been converted into croplands 
• 20% of the earth’s coral reefs have been extinct 
• the amount of water impounded behind dams has quadrupled
• reactive nitrogen levels in the terrestrial ecosystem have increased
• levels of atmospheric concentration of carbon dioxide have also increased                                                                     

The Millennium Ecosystem Assessment reports “more than two thirds of the area of 1 of the world’s 14 major terrestrial biomes and more than half of the area of 4 biomes have been converted by 1990, primarily for agricultural purposes.”  The Millennium Ecosystem Assessment also reveals the “number of species on the planet are declining.  Over the past few hundreds years humans have increased the species extinctions rate by as much as 1,000 times over background rates typical over the planet’s history.”  If we continue to abuse the earth’s resources the speculations of an approaching ecological crisis will become a reality.

Easter Island ahu's

For centuries humans have inadvertently abused the resources provided by mother nature.  In the book, A New Green History of the World: The Environment and the Collapse of Great Civilizations, the author Ponting describes the detrimental effects that can result from the “dependence of human societies on their environment” by referencing the sequence of events that occurred that ultimately led to the demise of the Easter Island civilization.  Easter Island is a small island near the coast of South America.  Polynesian settlers mainly dominated the island and as settlers arrived they discovered the island had very limited resources. The volcanic nature of the island caused high temperatures and humidity levels and fresh water was extremely scarce.  The author Ponting, reports that due to the remoteness of Easter Island the island had very few species and plants.  This forced the Easter Islanders to depend on a diet that included sweet potatoes and chickens.  Due to the limited amount of resources the inhabitants of Easter Island had the opportunity to spend the majority of their days doing several activities that didn’t largely revolve around cultivation.  Easter Islanders began building ahu, a type of monument used for burials, ceremonies, and worshipping.   The craftsmanship of the ahu is mind-boggling, “some six meters in length and weighing several tens of tonnes.”(Ponting)  Instead of constructing the ahu’s in their desired locations, the Easter Islanders would build then transport the structures to the determined locations.  To move the ahu’s the settlers would cut down trees and use the tree trunks as rollers.  Sub cultural clans of Easter Island began to evolve at a rapid pace causing an increased rivalry between the clans.  The growing competition between the clans led to an increase of ahu's constructed.  The increased construction of the ahu’s led to an increase in the amount of trees cut down to move the structures.  This is a perfect representation of how humans have over used resources in order to increase the supply of other resources.  The deforestation of the island ultimately caused the demise of the civilization by off setting an ecological crisis to disrupt the society at large.  The depletion of the forests caused the limited food selection to become even more scarce.  Easter Island also experienced a significant increase in soil erosions levels, a limited means of transportation, and irreversible social and cultural damages.

Their are many ways that we can help stop this ecological crisis from developing any further.  In my opinion, gross domestic product should not be the motivation of our country, instead our country needs to take a step back and revaluate our day to day routines that deplete the earth’s resources.  We must consider the bigger picture and make wiser choices that aren’t harmful to the environment.  The support from the government and presiding institutions must also be intact.  It’s crucial that the government supports these efforts, seeing how they’re the liaison to the public at large.  The Ecosystem and Human Well-Being Synthesis reiterates the support of a government backing is the key to successfully implementing new policies that will prevent a future ecological crisis from occurring. To successfully implement these policies ensuring a sustainable future, coordination must exist across all sectors. Increased coordination will create a united front that will reduce the likelihood of an ecological crisis from occurring and enhance the quality of life for future generations.